Hiring a mobile mechanic shouldn’t be a gamble. Here are the exact questions that separate brilliant professionals from expensive mistakes – ask these before handing over your keys or your money.
You’ve found a mobile mechanic. Their van looks professional, their Google reviews are decent, and they’re available this week. Brilliant. You’re about to book them.
But here’s the thing: that 20-minute phone call or message exchange before you commit could save you hundreds of pounds and an enormous amount of stress. Or it could be the moment you spot red flags that tell you to run a mile in the opposite direction.
The problem is, most people don’t know what to ask. They ask vague questions like “are you good?” (nobody says no to that) or “can you fix my car?” (of course they’ll say yes, even if they’ve no idea what’s wrong with it yet). These questions tell you precisely nothing useful.
We’ve spoken to dozens of car owners who’ve had nightmare experiences with mobile mechanics – overcharging, bodged repairs, disappeared without finishing work, used wrong parts, caused additional damage. In almost every case, the warning signs were there from the very first conversation. They just didn’t know what questions to ask to spot them.
This guide fixes that. These are the specific questions that reveal whether you’re dealing with a qualified professional or a chancer in a van. Some questions verify credentials. Some test their knowledge. Some reveal their business practices. All of them protect you.
Ask these questions. Listen carefully to the answers. Trust your gut if something feels off.
Before We Start: How to Use These Questions
You don’t need to interrogate them like you’re conducting a police interview. But you do need to ask the important ones, especially if this is your first time using them or if significant money is involved.
For small jobs (oil change, battery): Ask 4-6 key questions
For medium jobs (brakes, service, diagnostics): Ask 8-10 questions
For major jobs (clutch, expensive repairs): Ask all relevant questions
Good mechanics expect these questions and answer them happily. Bad mechanics get defensive, evasive, or irritated. That reaction alone tells you everything.
Write down their answers – Especially insurance details, warranty terms, and pricing. If they won’t put something in writing that they’ve promised verbally, that’s a massive red flag.
Right, let’s get into the questions.
Category 1: Qualifications and Experience
These questions verify they actually know what they’re doing and have the credentials to prove it.
Question 1: “What qualifications do you have?”
What you’re listening for:
- ✅ “City & Guilds Level 3 in Light Vehicle Maintenance”
- ✅ “IMI Level 3 certified”
- ✅ “NVQ Level 3 Motor Vehicle”
- ✅ Plus any specialist certifications (EV training, manufacturer courses)
Red flags:
- ❌ “I’ve been doing this for years, don’t need qualifications”
- ❌ Vague answers: “I’m fully qualified”
- ❌ “I worked in garages for ages” (without mentioning actual qualifications)
- ❌ Getting defensive about the question
Why this matters: Anyone can buy a van and tools. Qualifications prove they understand vehicle systems, can diagnose properly, and work safely. City & Guilds Level 2 is minimum acceptable; Level 3 is what you want.
Follow-up: “Can I see copies of your certificates?” Legitimate mechanics keep these in their van or can email them. Those who can’t produce them probably don’t have them.
Question 2: “How long have you been a mobile mechanic specifically?”
What you’re listening for:
- Clear, specific answer: “Three years mobile, ten years total as a mechanic”
- Understanding that mobile work is different from garage work
Why this matters: Being a great garage mechanic doesn’t automatically make you a great mobile mechanic. Working on driveways, managing parts logistics, troubleshooting without comprehensive facilities – these are distinct skills. You want someone with at least 1-2 years mobile experience, ideally more.
Red flags:
- ❌ “Started last month” (unless they’re priced accordingly)
- ❌ Can’t clearly state how long they’ve been operating
- ❌ Recently left garage under unclear circumstances
Question 3: “Have you worked on [your car make/model] before?”
What you’re listening for:
- ✅ “Yes, I work on VWs regularly” or “I’ve done this exact job on your model”
- ✅ Or honest: “Not that specific model, but I’ve done similar work on the same engine/platform”
Red flags:
- ❌ “I can fix anything” (nobody can)
- ❌ Obvious lack of familiarity with your vehicle
- ❌ For complex/unusual vehicles: claiming expertise they clearly don’t have
Why this matters: Some vehicles are straightforward (Ford, Vauxhall, common VWs). Others are complicated (BMWs with complex electronics, French cars with quirky designs, anything Italian). If they’ve never touched your vehicle type, they’re learning on your dime.
Question 4: “Do you have specialist training for [relevant work]?”
Ask this if:
- You have an electric or hybrid vehicle: “Do you have IMI Level 3 high-voltage certification?”
- Work involves LPG: “Are you Gas Safe registered for automotive work?”
- It’s a classic car: “Do you have experience with carburettors/older systems?”
Why this matters: You cannot legally work on high-voltage EV systems without certification. You shouldn’t work on LPG without Gas Safe registration. Classic cars need different knowledge than modern vehicles.
Red flags:
- ❌ “I’ll figure it out” (not acceptable for specialist work)
- ❌ Claims EV expertise without IMI certification
- ❌ Dismissive of safety concerns
Category 2: Insurance and Legal Protection
These questions protect you if something goes wrong.
Question 5: “What insurance do you carry?”
What you need to hear:
- ✅ “Public liability insurance – £2 million” (minimum £1 million, but £2-£5 million is better)
- ✅ “Professional indemnity insurance – £1 million+”
- ✅ “Tool insurance” (shows they’re professional)
- ✅ “Business van insurance” (legal requirement)
Critical follow-up: “Can I see proof of insurance?”
They should: Have certificates in van or email them to you immediately. This isn’t optional – you need to verify insurance exists.
Red flags:
- ❌ “Yeah, I’m insured” (vague, no details)
- ❌ Reluctant to show certificates
- ❌ “I’ll email them later” then never does
- ❌ Only has van insurance (not enough)
Why this matters: If they damage your car, drop a tool through your windscreen, or cause a fire, their public liability insurance pays for it. Without insurance, you’re suing them personally (if you can find them) or claiming on your own insurance (affecting your premiums).
Real example: Mobile mechanic dropped gearbox, cracking customer’s driveway (£800 damage). Had proper insurance, claimed, paid out. No insurance? Customer’s problem.
Question 6: “Are you registered as a business and paying tax?”
What you’re listening for:
- ✅ “Yes, I’m registered as self-employed with HMRC”
- ✅ Or: “Yes, I’m a limited company” (better, shows established business)
- ✅ They can provide business name and registration details
Why this matters: Legitimate businesses pay tax and have proper insurance. Cash-only cowboys who aren’t registered are:
- Not insured (insurance requires business registration)
- Not paying tax (illegal)
- Impossible to track down if work fails
- Provide no comeback if problems arise
How to verify: Ask for proper invoice with their business details and VAT number (if VAT registered). Legitimate businesses always provide invoices.
Red flags:
- ❌ “Cash only, no paperwork”
- ❌ Can’t provide business name or registration
- ❌ Aggressive about not paying tax: “It’s legal, cash in hand”
- ❌ Offers discount for no invoice
Important: You’re not responsible for checking their tax status, but working with unregistered, uninsured operators puts you at risk.
Category 3: Pricing and Transparency
These questions ensure you understand exactly what you’re paying and why.
Question 7: “What’s your hourly rate and call-out fee?”
What you’re listening for:
- Clear, confident answer: “£50 per hour plus £55 call-out”
- Pricing in line with local market (check our pricing guide)
- Willingness to explain the charges
Red flags:
- ❌ Evasive or changes price during conversation
- ❌ “Depends…” (without clear explanation of what it depends on)
- ❌ Drastically below market rate (suspiciously cheap = corners cut)
- ❌ Reluctant to commit to pricing upfront
Follow-up questions:
- “Is that including VAT?” (adds 20% if they’re VAT registered)
- “Are there any other fees?” (parking charges, disposal fees, etc.)
- “What’s the minimum charge?” (some have minimum 1-hour charge even for 20-min jobs)
Question 8: “Can you give me a written quote before starting work?”
What you’re listening for:
- ✅ “Yes, absolutely. I’ll provide written quote once I’ve assessed the work”
- ✅ For routine work: “For a full service on your car, it’s £180-£200 – I’ll confirm exact price when I see it”
Red flags:
- ❌ “I’ll tell you the price after” (unacceptable)
- ❌ “Trust me, it’ll be fair” (you need concrete numbers)
- ❌ Won’t provide written quote for expensive work
Why this matters: Written quotes protect both parties. You know maximum cost. They can’t inflate price after work is done. Everything’s documented.
Important: Quotes should be detailed:
- Labour hours and rate
- Parts needed and costs
- Call-out fee
- Any additional charges
- Total price
Generic “should be about £200” isn’t good enough for major work.
Question 9: “How do you price parts – do you mark them up?”
What you’re listening for:
- ✅ Honest answer: “I add 20-30% to trade price to cover sourcing and warranty”
- ✅ Or: “You can supply parts yourself if you prefer, but warranty only covers my labour”
- ✅ Specific about parts quality: “I use Bosch/Delphi/quality brands”
Red flags:
- ❌ Evasive about markup
- ❌ Won’t specify parts brands
- ❌ Insists on supplying parts with no transparency on cost
- ❌ Massive markup (100%+) with no justification
Why this matters: Some markup is reasonable and expected (20-30% is standard). You’re paying for their time sourcing, their warranty responsibility, and convenience. But 100% markup on parts you could buy yourself is taking the piss.
Your choice: If you want to save money, offer to supply parts yourself. But understand: if parts are wrong or faulty, that’s your problem and you’ll pay for the second visit.
Question 10: “What warranty do you offer on parts and labour?”
What you need to hear:
- ✅ “12 months warranty on both parts and labour” (gold standard)
- ✅ Minimum acceptable: “6 months warranty”
- ✅ Specific about what’s covered: “If part fails or work is faulty within warranty period, I’ll fix it free of charge”
Red flags:
- ❌ No warranty offered
- ❌ “Warranty only covers parts” (what about faulty work?)
- ❌ Vague: “I’ll look after you” (not specific enough)
- ❌ Very short warranty (30 days or less)
Critical: Get warranty in writing on invoice. Verbal promises aren’t enforceable.
Follow-up: “What if I have a problem – how do I reach you?” (You need direct contact details)
Why this matters: Warranties show confidence in work quality. Good mechanics stand behind their work. Cowboys disappear when work fails.
Category 4: Practical and Logistical
These questions cover how the work actually happens.
Question 11: “Where will you work on my car – what space do you need?”
What you’re listening for:
- ✅ Specific requirements: “I need flat, solid ground – driveway or car park”
- ✅ Understanding of safety: “I need space to work safely, away from traffic”
- ✅ Realistic about limitations: “Some jobs I can’t do on sloped driveways”
Why this matters: Mobile mechanics need appropriate working conditions. Steep slopes are dangerous. Gravel driveways can be problematic. On-street parking with passing traffic isn’t always safe.
Be honest about your space: If you live in a flat with only street parking, say so upfront. They’ll tell you if it’s workable.
Red flags:
- ❌ “I can work anywhere” (unrealistic for some jobs)
- ❌ No safety considerations mentioned
- ❌ Willing to work in clearly unsafe conditions
Question 12: “How long will the work take?”
What you’re listening for:
- ✅ Realistic timeframe: “Service takes 1.5-2 hours typically”
- ✅ Buffer built in: “Should be 2 hours, but if I find issues it might take longer”
- ✅ Honest about variables: “Depends what I find when I get into it”
Red flags:
- ❌ Unrealistically fast: “I’ll do a full service in 45 minutes” (corners being cut)
- ❌ Can’t give any timeframe at all
- ❌ Constantly changing estimate during work
Why this matters: You’re arranging your day around this. You need realistic expectations. Mechanics who over-promise on speed either rush (bad work) or run late (annoying).
For major jobs: Ask if it’s one visit or multiple. Some jobs (like timing belts) are substantial – 4-6 hours. Others might need two visits (diagnostic session, then repair once parts arrive).
Question 13: “What happens if you discover additional work is needed?”
What you’re listening for:
- ✅ “I’ll call/text you immediately with details and pricing before proceeding”
- ✅ “I’ll show you the problem and explain why it needs doing”
- ✅ “You’re never obligated to have additional work done”
Red flags:
- ❌ “I’ll just sort it” (unauthorised work)
- ❌ “Most cars need extra work” (sounds like a scam setup)
- ❌ Vague about getting your approval first
Why this matters: This is where scam mechanics operate. You book for brakes (£200), they then tell you that you desperately need new discs, calipers, fluid, lines, basically rebuilding the entire brake system (£800+).
Good mechanics:
- Show you the problem
- Explain urgency (is it dangerous now, or can it wait?)
- Give you options
- Get explicit approval before proceeding
- Document everything
Important: “Additional work needed” is sometimes genuine. Worn brake discs when replacing pads is common. But you have the right to:
- See the problem
- Get second opinions
- Decline additional work
- Have only original work completed
Question 14: “Do you clean up after the work?”
What you’re listening for:
- ✅ “Yes, I’ll clean up any mess and take waste away”
- ✅ “I use protective mats/covers”
- ✅ Details about waste disposal (oil, batteries properly disposed)
Why this matters: Professional mechanics don’t leave oil puddles on your driveway or used parts scattered around. They protect your property and clean up properly.
Environmental note: Used oil, batteries, and filters can’t just be dumped in your bin. Ask how they dispose of waste. “I’ll take it to recycling centre” is correct answer.
Question 15: “What if I’m not satisfied with the work?”
What you’re listening for:
- ✅ “If there’s any problem, call me straight away and I’ll come back and look at it”
- ✅ Clear complaints procedure
- ✅ Confident they stand behind their work
- ✅ Mentions warranty coverage
Red flags:
- ❌ Defensive response: “There won’t be any problems”
- ❌ No clear process for handling complaints
- ❌ “Once work’s done, it’s done” (unacceptable)
Why this matters: Even good mechanics occasionally have issues – parts fail, problems develop, mistakes happen. What matters is how they handle it.
Good mechanics: Return quickly, assess problem, fix issues within warranty period without arguing.
Bad mechanics: Disappear, argue it wasn’t their fault, charge again to look at it, claim it’s a different problem.
Bonus Questions for Specific Situations
If You Have an Electric or Hybrid Vehicle:
“Do you have the IMI Level 3 high-voltage qualification?”
- Essential for any work on high-voltage systems
- Can verify on IMI website
- Without it, they legally can’t touch EV batteries or motors
“What diagnostic equipment do you use for EVs?”
- Need manufacturer-specific tools for many EVs
- Generic OBD scanners often insufficient
If It’s Diagnostic Work:
“What diagnostic equipment do you use?”
- ✅ Professional: Autel, Snap-on, Launch (£300-£3,000 equipment)
- ❌ Cheap: Basic code readers from eBay (£50)
“Do you charge for diagnostic time even if you can’t find the fault?”
- Fair answer: “Yes, diagnostic time is charged even if we can’t identify problem – but I’ll be honest if I can’t find it”
If It’s Emergency Breakdown:
“How quickly can you attend?”
- Get specific: “Within 2 hours” not “as soon as possible”
“What’s your emergency call-out fee?”
- Should be higher than standard call-out
- £100-£200+ is typical for genuine emergency
If You’re Elderly or Vulnerable:
“Can you provide references from other customers?”
- Legitimate mechanics happy to provide references
- Ask specifically for references from similar customers (elderly, disabled, etc.)
“Will you explain everything clearly and show me the work?”
- Patient explanation without patronising is what you want
Red Flags That Mean Walk Away
Some answers or behaviours should make you immediately look elsewhere:
❌ Pressure to book immediately: “I can only do this price if you book right now”
❌ Cash only, no invoice: “Save 20% if we do cash, no paperwork”
❌ Can’t or won’t provide insurance certificates: “I’ll email them later” (then doesn’t)
❌ No landline, only mobile, no business details: Makes them impossible to track down
❌ Recent negative reviews about disappearing or bad work: Check Google reviews carefully
❌ Aggressive or defensive when questioned: Professional mechanics expect questions
❌ Too good to be true pricing: Half the price of everyone else (corners being cut somewhere)
❌ Reluctant to give written quotes: “Just trust me on the price”
❌ Claims they can do literally anything: No mechanic can – everyone has limitations
❌ Bad grammar/communication skills: If they can’t explain clearly now, they won’t explain the work clearly
❌ Turn up in unbranded, messy van: Professional presentation matters
Green Flags That Indicate Quality
These signs suggest you’re dealing with a professional:
✅ Answers questions confidently and specifically: No waffle, clear responses
✅ Provides documentation without being asked: Insurance, certifications, business details
✅ Asks YOU questions about the car: Shows professional approach to diagnosis
✅ Admits what they don’t know or can’t do: “That’s specialist work, I’d recommend…”
✅ Explains things clearly in plain English: Can translate technical jargon
✅ Professional presentation: Clean van, uniform, branded materials, organised tools
✅ Proper website and online presence: Google Business Profile, reviews, professional communication
✅ Written quote provided promptly: Detailed breakdown of costs
✅ Realistic timeframes: Not promising miracles
✅ Reviews mention specific good qualities: “Explained everything clearly”, “fair pricing”, “came back to fix minor issue”
How to Actually Ask These Questions
You don’t need to rattle through all 15 questions like an interrogation. Work them naturally into conversation:
Initial contact (phone/message):
- Qualifications and experience (Questions 1-3)
- Hourly rate and pricing (Question 7)
- Availability and timeframe (Question 12)
Before booking:
- Insurance details (Question 5)
- Written quote (Question 8)
- Warranty information (Question 10)
When they arrive:
- Verify they match who you’ve been speaking to
- Check van signage and professional presentation
- Ask any remaining questions you need answered
Trust your instincts: If something feels off, it probably is. You can always politely decline and find someone else.
What to Do With the Answers
Keep notes: Write down key answers, especially:
- Insurance details and certificate numbers
- Pricing breakdown
- Warranty terms
- Timeframes promised
Verify where possible:
- Check qualifications on IMI website
- Look up business registration at Companies House
- Google their business name for reviews
- Ask for references and actually call them
Get it in writing:
- Written quote before work starts
- Invoice with all details after work completes
- Warranty terms on invoice
Create paper trail:
- Text/email confirmations of conversations
- Photos of car before work starts
- Photos of work completed
- Keep all documentation together
Using These Questions on Trader Street
When you find mobile mechanics through Trader Street, you can message them directly to ask these questions before booking. Look for mechanics who:
- Display qualifications on profiles
- Have detailed service descriptions
- Show clear pricing
- Have multiple positive reviews
- Respond professionally to messages
The platform makes it easy to compare answers from multiple mechanics, ensuring you choose someone who meets your standards.
Final Thoughts: Taking Control
Here’s the truth: asking these questions isn’t being difficult or demanding. It’s being smart.
You’re trusting this person with an expensive asset (your car). You’re paying them significant money. You’re potentially giving them access to your home. You have every right to verify they’re legitimate, qualified, and professional.
Good mechanics appreciate informed customers who ask sensible questions. They’re proud of their qualifications and happy to demonstrate their professionalism. They understand these questions protect both parties.
Bad mechanics get defensive, evasive, or irritated by questions. That response alone tells you everything you need to know.
Don’t be apologetic about asking. Don’t worry about seeming rude. These are reasonable, sensible questions that any professional should answer easily.
The 20 minutes you spend asking these questions could save you:
- Hundreds of pounds on bodged repairs
- Days of stress dealing with poor work
- The hassle of finding someone to fix what they broke
- Potentially dangerous vehicle faults from incompetent work
Ask the questions. Listen to the answers. Trust your gut. Choose wisely.
Your car – and your wallet – will thank you.
Quick Reference: The Must-Ask Questions
For convenience, here are the absolute essentials you should ask every time:
Minimum 5 Questions (Small Jobs):
- What qualifications do you have?
- What insurance do you carry? (Get proof)
- What’s your hourly rate and call-out fee?
- What warranty do you offer?
- Can you give me a written quote?
Essential 10 Questions (Medium Jobs):
- What qualifications do you have?
- Have you worked on my car make/model before?
- What insurance do you carry? (Get proof)
- What’s your hourly rate and call-out fee?
- Can you give me a written quote?
- How do you price parts?
- What warranty do you offer?
- How long will the work take?
- What happens if additional work is needed?
- What if I’m not satisfied?
All 15 Questions (Major Jobs):
Ask all questions in this guide, plus any specialist questions relevant to your vehicle or situation.
FAQs
What if the mechanic gets annoyed by my questions?
Walk away. Professional mechanics expect questions and answer them happily. Defensive reactions indicate problems. You dodged a bullet.
Can I ask to see their work on other vehicles?
Absolutely. Many mechanics keep photos of completed work. Asking to see examples of similar jobs on similar vehicles is completely reasonable, especially for major work.
Should I get multiple quotes?
For routine work (service, brakes), 1-2 quotes sufficient. For expensive work (clutch, head gasket), get 3 quotes. More than 3 becomes diminishing returns.
What if they can’t answer a question immediately?
“Let me check my insurance certificate and send you details” is fine. “I’ll get back to you” then never does is a red flag.
Is it rude to ask for references?
Not at all. Established mechanics have satisfied customers who’ll happily vouch for them. Asking for 2-3 references for major work is completely acceptable.
What if I’ve already booked and then spot red flags?
Cancel. Better to be embarrassed about cancelling than stuck with a cowboy. “I’ve decided to go another route, apologies for wasting your time.”
Should I ask the same questions to garages?
Yes! These questions work equally for garages. Qualifications, insurance, pricing transparency, warranties – all apply regardless of whether they work from van or building.
Can I ask these questions after they’ve started work?
You can, but you should ask BEFORE. Once work has started, you’ve already committed. Ask questions during booking phase.
What if English isn’t their first language?
Communication skills matter. If you can’t understand their explanations now, you won’t understand them during the work. Language barriers can cause serious misunderstandings.
Do I really need to see insurance certificates?
Yes. “I’m insured” is easy to say. Seeing actual certificates with policy numbers, coverage amounts, and expiry dates verifies it’s real and current.