Your sink’s backing up, your toilet’s gurgling ominously, and you’re standing there with a plunger wondering if you’re about to make things worse. Here’s how to know when to DIY and when to call in the cavalry.
Let’s paint a picture. It’s Sunday evening. You’re doing the washing up after a lovely roast dinner. The sink is full of greasy water and… it’s not draining. At all. Just sitting there, mocking you, whilst bits of carrot float around in increasingly disgusting grey water.
You try running the tap, thinking maybe it just needs a bit of encouragement. The water level rises higher. You panic slightly. Do you grab the plunger? Pour something down it? Call an emergency plumber? Ring your dad? Stand there hoping it sorts itself out through sheer force of will?
Blocked drains are one of those household emergencies that range from mildly annoying to absolutely catastrophic. The tricky bit is knowing which you’re dealing with and, crucially, whether you can fix it yourself or whether you need to admit defeat and call a professional before you make things spectacularly worse.
This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about drain blockages – what causes them, how to diagnose the severity, which DIY methods actually work (and which make things worse), when you absolutely need a professional, what the pros can do that you can’t, and what it’ll cost. By the end, you’ll know exactly what to do next time you’re faced with standing water where there really shouldn’t be any.
Understanding Your Drainage System
Before we dive into unblocking things, let’s quickly cover how your drainage actually works. Trust us, understanding this makes everything else make sense.
The Different Types of Drains
Your property has several different drainage systems, and knowing which one is blocked helps determine your approach.
Waste water drains (grey water):
- Kitchen sink
- Bathroom basin
- Bath and shower
- Washing machine and dishwasher
- These carry dirty water but not sewage
Soil drains (black water):
- Toilets
- These carry sewage
- Much larger diameter pipes (110mm usually)
- More serious if blocked
External drains:
- Gullies (outside drains at ground level)
- Main underground drainage pipes
- Connect to sewer system or septic tank
- Shared with neighbours in many properties
The key distinction: Interior waste pipes are your responsibility and relatively easy to access. External drains and sewers might be your responsibility, shared responsibility, or your water company’s responsibility depending on where the blockage is.
How Blockages Happen
Understanding what causes blockages helps prevent them (and helps you know whether DIY clearing will work).
Kitchen sink blockages:
- Fat and grease (cools and solidifies in pipes)
- Food scraps (especially starchy foods like rice and pasta)
- Coffee grounds (terrible for drains)
- Grease combining with soap to form solid deposits
Bathroom drain blockages:
- Hair (the biggest culprit by far)
- Soap scum buildup
- Toothpaste residue
- Cotton buds and sanitary products (if wrongly disposed down drains)
- Limescale in hard water areas
Toilet blockages:
- Too much toilet paper
- “Flushable” wipes (spoiler: they’re not actually flushable)
- Sanitary products
- Baby wipes
- Cotton wool
- Anything that isn’t toilet paper or human waste
External drain blockages:
- Tree roots invading pipes (very common in older properties)
- Collapsed or damaged pipes
- Ground movement and subsidence
- Decades of fat and debris buildup
- Objects flushed or washed down that shouldn’t be
DIY Drain Clearing: What Actually Works
Right, you’ve got a blocked drain. Let’s start with what you can try yourself before calling in the professionals.
Method 1: The Plunger (Success Rate: 60%)
The humble plunger is your first line of defence and works surprisingly well for many blockages.
How to use a plunger properly:
For sinks and basins:
- Fill the sink with a few inches of water (plungers need water to create suction)
- Block the overflow hole with a wet cloth (otherwise you just push air out the overflow)
- Position plunger over plughole, ensuring good seal
- Push down firmly but not aggressively
- Pull up sharply (the suction on the upstroke often dislodges blockages)
- Repeat 15-20 times with steady rhythm
- Remove plunger and see if water drains
For toilets:
- Use a proper toilet plunger (cup-shaped with extension flange)
- Insert into toilet bowl, ensuring flange extends into the outlet
- Push down slowly to expel air, then pull up sharply
- Repeat 10-15 times
- Flush and see if blockage clears
When plunging works:
- Soft blockages (hair, food, toilet paper)
- Blockages close to the outlet
- Simple, straightforward blockages
When it doesn’t:
- Hard blockages (solidified fat, foreign objects)
- Blockages far down the pipe
- Multiple blockages in series
- Damaged or collapsed pipes
Cost: £5-£15 for a decent plunger (worth having two – one for sinks, one for toilets).
Method 2: Boiling Water (Success Rate: 40%)
For kitchen sinks blocked with grease, boiling water can work brilliantly. For other blockages, it’s useless.
How to do it:
- Boil a full kettle (proper boiling, not just hot)
- Pour slowly down the drain in stages
- Wait 5 minutes between pours
- Repeat 2-3 times
- Finish with hot tap running
When this works:
- Grease and fat blockages in kitchen sinks
- Soap scum buildup
- Recent blockages (not ancient, solidified deposits)
When it doesn’t:
- Hair blockages (boiling water does nothing to hair)
- Physical objects stuck in pipes
- Toilet blockages
- Bathroom basin blockages
Important warning: Don’t use boiling water on toilets. The thermal shock can crack the porcelain. Only use for kitchen sinks and possibly bathroom sinks (though lukewarm is safer for bathroom ceramics).
Cost: Free (just the electricity to boil the kettle).
Method 3: Baking Soda and Vinegar (Success Rate: 35%)
The internet loves this method. It’s satisfying to watch the fizzing reaction. Does it actually work? Sometimes, but don’t expect miracles.
How to do it:
- Pour half a cup of baking soda down the drain
- Follow with half a cup of white vinegar
- Cover the drain (the fizzing reaction creates pressure)
- Leave for 30 minutes
- Flush with boiling water
When this works:
- Light blockages and slow drainage
- Preventative maintenance (keeps drains fresh)
- Minor grease buildup
When it doesn’t:
- Serious blockages (the fizzing isn’t powerful enough)
- Hair blockages
- Physical obstructions
Cost: £2-£3 for baking soda and vinegar (you probably have them anyway).
Reality check: This method is more about making you feel like you’re doing something than actually clearing serious blockages. It’s nice for maintenance, rubbish for proper blockages.
Method 4: Drain Snake/Auger (Success Rate: 70%)
Now we’re talking. A proper drain snake (also called an auger) is genuinely effective for many blockages.
What it is: Long flexible cable (typically 3-10 metres) with a corkscrew or hook end. You push it down the drain, it reaches the blockage, and you either pull it back out or break it up.
How to use it:
For sinks and basins:
- Remove sink trap/U-bend if possible (easier access)
- Feed snake into drain opening
- Push gently whilst rotating clockwise
- When you hit resistance, rotate more vigorously
- Push and pull to break up blockage or hook onto it
- Pull snake back slowly
- Clean off whatever you’ve retrieved (warning: it’ll be disgusting)
- Flush with hot water
For toilets:
- Use a toilet auger (shorter, specially designed)
- Feed into toilet outlet
- Rotate handle whilst pushing
- Hook or break up blockage
- Retrieve snake carefully
- Flush to check clearance
When this works:
- Hair blockages (brilliant for these)
- Solid objects you can hook and pull back
- Blockages within 3-10 metres of drain opening
- Most common household blockages
When it doesn’t:
- Blockages beyond snake length
- Collapsed or damaged pipes
- Extremely hard blockages (years of solidified deposits)
- Tree roots
Cost:
- Basic hand snake: £15-£30
- Better quality snake: £40-£80
- Professional-grade: £100-£200
Worth it? Absolutely. A £30 drain snake can save you multiple £80-£150 plumber call-outs over the years.
Method 5: Chemical Drain Cleaners (Success Rate: 50%)
Chemical cleaners work for some blockages but come with significant caveats.
Common types:
Caustic cleaners (sodium hydroxide):
- Generates heat to dissolve grease and hair
- Effective on organic blockages
- Can damage some pipe types
- Dangerous if misused
Acidic cleaners (sulfuric acid):
- Dissolve organic material
- Very effective but very dangerous
- Can damage pipes and fixtures
- Toxic fumes
Enzymatic cleaners:
- Use bacteria to break down organic matter
- Safer for pipes and environment
- Much slower (overnight action)
- Won’t work on physical obstructions
How to use safely:
- Read instructions completely before opening
- Ensure room is well ventilated
- Wear gloves and eye protection
- Never mix different chemical cleaners (can create dangerous reactions)
- Pour carefully down drain (avoid splashing)
- Leave for recommended time
- Flush thoroughly with cold water
- Keep away from children and pets
When chemicals work:
- Hair and organic matter blockages
- Grease and soap scum
- Slow-draining sinks
- Preventative maintenance
When they don’t:
- Physical objects stuck in pipes
- Collapsed or damaged pipes
- Tree root invasions
- Main sewer blockages
Why we’re hesitant to recommend:
- Can damage pipes, especially old ones or certain plastics
- Dangerous if misused
- Environmentally problematic
- Often temporarily masks problems rather than solving them
- Can make plumber’s job harder (and more expensive) if they fail
Cost: £5-£15 per bottle.
Our advice: Use as a last resort before calling a plumber, not your first choice. And if you’re on a septic tank, don’t use caustic cleaners – they’ll kill the beneficial bacteria.
Method 6: Wet/Dry Vacuum (Success Rate: 50%)
This is a lesser-known method that can work surprisingly well for the right type of blockage.
How it works:
- Set wet/dry vacuum to liquid mode
- Create tight seal over drain opening (use old plunger head if needed)
- Turn on vacuum at highest setting
- Suction can pull blockages back up
When this works:
- Solid objects dropped down drains
- Blockages near drain opening
- When you need to retrieve something specific
When it doesn’t:
- Blockages far down the pipe
- Soft blockages that just compress under suction
- Hair and grease blockages
Cost: £60-£150 for a decent wet/dry vacuum (useful for other things too).
The DIY Methods You Should Avoid
Some methods circulating online are either ineffective or downright dangerous.
Don’t try these:
Wire coat hangers: Sounds clever, rarely works, often pushes blockages further down. Just buy a proper snake.
Pressure washers down drains: Can damage pipes, push blockages further, or force water back up into your house. Leave pressure cleaning to professionals with proper equipment.
Multiple chemical products: Mixing drain cleaners can create toxic fumes or explosive reactions. Never mix chemicals.
Taking apart traps without a bucket underneath: You will flood your kitchen. We all learn this the hard way, but learn from our mistakes and put a bucket there first.
“Drain bladders” without knowing what you’re doing: These expand with water pressure to clear blockages. In inexperienced hands, they can burst pipes or flood your property. Professionals only.
When to Call a Professional
Right, you’ve tried the DIY methods. The drain’s still blocked. Or perhaps you sensibly skipped DIY and want to know when a professional is the smart choice from the start.
Red Flags That Mean “Call Someone Now”
Call a professional immediately if:
Sewage is backing up: If sewage is coming back up toilets, baths, or outside drains, this is an emergency. Don’t mess about with plungers. Call an emergency drainage specialist immediately.
Multiple drains are blocked: If sinks, toilets, and baths are all affected, the blockage is in your main drain or sewer. This is beyond DIY.
Foul smell from drains: Persistent sewage smells suggest main drain issues or blocked vent pipes. Needs professional investigation.
Gurgling sounds from drains: When you flush one toilet and another gurgles, or sinks gurgle when toilets flush, you’ve got venting or main drain problems.
Water backing up into other fixtures: Flush the toilet and the bath fills with water? Main drain blockage. Call a pro.
Repeated blockages: If you clear a blockage but it returns within days or weeks, there’s an underlying problem (damaged pipes, root invasion, inadequate fall). Needs professional diagnosis.
Blockage in external drains: Anything beyond your internal traps is generally professional territory. External drains often need specialist equipment.
Slow draining after DIY attempts: If you’ve tried everything and drainage is still slow, there’s probably something your DIY methods can’t reach or shift.
Old property with clay pipes: If you live in a pre-1960s property with clay drainage pipes (most are), be very careful with DIY. These pipes are fragile and easily damaged. Professional investigation is safer.
What Professionals Can Do That You Can’t
Professional drainage specialists have equipment and expertise you simply can’t replicate at home.
Professional tools and methods:
High-pressure water jetting: Industrial pressure washers specifically designed for drains. They blast blockages with water at 3000-4000 PSI, cutting through tree roots, solidified fat, and decades of buildup. Incredibly effective but requires training to avoid damaging pipes.
CCTV drain surveys: Tiny cameras on flexible cables feed into your drains, showing exactly what’s happening underground. Identifies blockages, damage, collapses, root invasions, and pipe condition. Takes the guesswork out of diagnosis.
Electro-mechanical cleaners: Powerful rotating cables with various cutting heads. Can cut through roots, remove hardened deposits, and clear blockages dozens of metres away.
Drain rodding: Traditional but effective. Professional-grade rods are much longer and more robust than DIY equipment, reaching blockages you can’t.
Specialist knowledge: Understanding drainage systems, knowing when pipes are damaged vs. just blocked, identifying root cause rather than just symptoms.
Safety equipment: Proper protective gear for dealing with sewage, confined spaces, and hazardous materials.
Types of Blockages: DIY vs. Professional
Let’s break down common blockages and whether you can realistically handle them yourself.
Kitchen Sink Blockages
Cause: Usually grease and food debris in the trap or nearby pipework.
DIY success rate: 70-80%
Try DIY if:
- Blockage is recent (last few days)
- You can access the trap under the sink
- Water is draining slowly but still draining
- No sewage smells
DIY approach:
- Plunger first (60% success)
- Remove and clean trap (80% success if blockage is in trap)
- Boiling water for grease (40% success)
- Drain snake if needed (70% success)
Call a pro if:
- Complete blockage (no drainage at all)
- Multiple sinks affected
- Sewage smells
- Repeated blockages
- DIY methods fail
Professional cost: £80-£200 for standard call-out and clearing.
Bathroom Basin Blockages
Cause: Hair and soap scum in the trap or pop-up waste mechanism.
DIY success rate: 75-85%
Try DIY if:
- Slow drainage rather than complete blockage
- Visible hair in pop-up waste
- Recent blockage
DIY approach:
- Remove and clean pop-up waste mechanism (often this is the entire problem)
- Plunger (70% success)
- Drain snake (80% success for hair blockages)
- Chemical cleaner as last resort (50% success)
Call a pro if:
- Can’t remove pop-up waste mechanism
- Blockage is further down the pipe
- Multiple basins affected
- DIY attempts fail
Professional cost: £80-£180 for standard call-out and clearing.
Bath and Shower Blockages
Cause: Hair accumulation (shocking amounts of it).
DIY success rate: 60-70%
Try DIY if:
- Slow drainage rather than standing water
- You can access the trap
- Visible hair blockage
DIY approach:
- Remove drain cover and pull out hair (disgusting but often effective)
- Drain snake (70% success)
- Plunger (50% success)
Call a pro if:
- Can’t access trap
- Blockage is in pipes below floor
- Standing water not draining at all
- DIY attempts fail
Professional cost: £100-£200 (often requires accessing traps below bath, which can be tricky).
Toilet Blockages
Cause: Too much toilet paper, “flushable” wipes (that aren’t), or inappropriate items flushed.
DIY success rate: 70-80%
Try DIY if:
- Blockage is recent (just happened)
- Water level is lowering slowly (suggests blockage is shifting)
- No sewage backing up elsewhere
DIY approach:
- Toilet plunger (70% success)
- Toilet auger (75% success)
- Wait an hour (sometimes blockages soften and clear)
Call a pro if:
- Sewage backing up into bath or shower
- Multiple toilets affected
- Toilet overflowing
- Solid object flushed (child’s toy, phone, etc.)
- Repeated blockages
Professional cost: £100-£250 depending on severity and time required.
Important: If a child has flushed a solid object (toy, hairbrush, etc.), call a pro immediately. These objects can get stuck and create major problems if you try to push them through.
External Drain Blockages
Cause: Tree roots, decades of buildup, collapsed pipes, or shared drain issues with neighbours.
DIY success rate: 20-30%
Try DIY if:
- You’re brave and have proper protective equipment
- Blockage is visible at the gully
- You understand drainage systems
DIY approach:
- Drain rods from hardware shop (£30-£60)
- Protective gloves, face mask, and old clothes essential
- Be prepared for extremely unpleasant discoveries
Call a pro if:
- Sewage is backing up
- Blockage isn’t visible or accessible
- You’re not confident dealing with sewage
- Shared drains involved (often your neighbours’ waste is backing up into your property)
Professional cost: £150-£400 for rodding and clearing. CCTV survey adds £150-£400 if investigation needed.
Reality check: External drain work is genuinely unpleasant and often complex. Unless you’ve got a strong stomach and proper equipment, this is one where calling a professional makes sense from the start.
Main Sewer Blockages
Cause: Tree roots, collapsed Victorian-era pipes, or blockages deep in the system.
DIY success rate: 0%
Don’t try DIY: These blockages are beyond domestic equipment and require professional jet clearing, CCTV surveys, and potentially excavation.
Call a pro immediately if:
- Multiple properties affected
- Sewage backing up into property
- Manholes overflowing
- Persistent problems
Professional cost: £200-£800 depending on severity. If excavation required: £1,500-£5,000.
Responsibility: If the blockage is in shared drainage or the main sewer, your water company may be responsible. Call them first to establish responsibility before paying for private drainage specialists.
Professional Drainage Services: What to Expect
So you’ve decided to call in a professional. Here’s what happens and what it should cost in 2025.
Emergency vs. Standard Call-Outs
Emergency drainage services:
- Available 24/7
- Rapid response (typically within 2-4 hours)
- Cost: £150-£300 call-out fee
- Hourly rate: £80-£150 per hour
- Weekends and nights cost more (£200-£400 call-out)
Standard appointments:
- Normal working hours
- Next-day or scheduled service
- Cost: £80-£150 call-out
- Hourly rate: £60-£100 per hour
- Often a better deal if not genuinely urgent
When you need emergency:
- Sewage backing up into property
- Toilet overflowing uncontrollably
- Multiple drains blocked
- Health and safety risk
When standard is fine:
- Slow-draining sinks
- Single fixture blocked
- Recurring minor issues
- You can cope for 24 hours
Common Professional Services and Costs
Basic drain clearance:
- Method: Rodding or mechanical cleaning
- Time: 1-2 hours
- Cost: £100-£200
- Success rate: 85%
High-pressure water jetting:
- Method: Industrial jet cleaner
- Time: 1-3 hours
- Cost: £150-£400
- Success rate: 95%
- Best for: Grease, roots, stubborn blockages
CCTV drain survey:
- Method: Camera inspection
- Time: 1-2 hours
- Cost: £150-£400
- Provides: Video evidence of problem, written report
- Essential for: Recurring problems, pre-purchase surveys, insurance claims
Drain repairs:
- Minor repairs: £200-£600
- Patch lining: £500-£1,500
- Excavation and replacement: £1,500-£5,000+
- Depends on: Accessibility, length of damaged section, reinstatement requirements
Toilet removal and replacement:
- When toilet needs removing to clear blockage
- Cost: £200-£400
- Time: 2-3 hours
Finding a Reliable Drainage Specialist
Not all drainage companies are equal. Here’s how to find good ones.
Using Trader Street:
Search “local plumber near me UK” on Trader Street, but specifically look for those offering drainage services. Many plumbers handle drainage, whilst some specialise in it.
What to look for:
- Reviews specifically mentioning drainage work
- CCTV survey equipment (shows they’re equipped for proper diagnostics)
- Photos of drainage work
- Emergency availability if needed
- Clear pricing structure
- Public liability insurance
Questions to ask:
- “What method will you use to clear the blockage?”
- “Do you have CCTV equipment if needed?”
- “What’s your call-out fee and hourly rate?”
- “How long do you expect this to take?”
- “What if the blockage can’t be cleared – what’s the next step?”
- “Do you provide a warranty on the work?”
- “Are you insured for drainage work?”
Red flags:
- Vague about methods or costs
- Can’t explain what they’ll do
- Pressure to have expensive surveys before even attempting clearance
- Cash-only, no receipts
- No insurance
- Quotes that seem too cheap (£40-£50 for drainage clearance is suspicious)
Preventing Future Blockages
An ounce of prevention genuinely beats a pound of cure with drains.
Kitchen Drains
Do:
- Scrape plates into bin before washing
- Use sink strainers to catch food debris
- Pour grease and fat into containers and bin them (never down the drain)
- Run hot water after washing up
- Monthly maintenance flush with boiling water
Don’t:
- Pour fat, oil, or grease down drains
- Wash coffee grounds down sink
- Put starchy foods (rice, pasta) down waste disposal
- Use your sink as a bin
Bathroom Drains
Do:
- Use drain covers with fine mesh to catch hair
- Remove hair from plughole weekly
- Clean pop-up waste mechanisms monthly
- Run hot water after showers
- Brush hair before showering (less falls out)
Don’t:
- Let hair build up in drains
- Flush cotton wool or cotton buds
- Wash excessive amounts of hair down drain after haircuts
Toilets
Do:
- Use reasonable amounts of toilet paper
- Flush large amounts in multiple flushes
- Keep a bin in bathroom for other items
- Explain to children what can’t be flushed
Don’t:
- Flush “flushable” wipes (they’re really not flushable)
- Flush sanitary products
- Flush baby wipes
- Flush cotton wool
- Flush anything except toilet paper and human waste
“Flushable” wipes warning: Despite what packaging claims, these wipes don’t break down like toilet paper. They’re a leading cause of blockages in both household drains and public sewers. Water companies across the UK are begging people to stop flushing them. Bin them instead.
External Drains
Do:
- Keep gully covers clear of leaves and debris
- Have drains surveyed every 5-10 years (especially older properties)
- Be cautious about planting trees near drain runs
- Check manholes occasionally
Don’t:
- Park on top of inspection covers
- Plant willow or poplar trees near drains (roots seek out water aggressively)
- Ignore slow drainage or bad smells
Monthly Maintenance
Simple routine:
- Pour boiling water down kitchen sink
- Clean all drain covers and strainers
- Check external gullies for debris
- Flush baking soda and vinegar down infrequently used drains (keeps them fresh)
Time investment: 15 minutes monthly
Cost: Essentially free
Benefit: Dramatically reduces blockage frequency
The Bottom Line: Know Your Limits
Drain blockages sit in that awkward middle ground where some are definitely DIY-able and others absolutely aren’t. The trick is knowing which is which and not being too proud to call in help when needed.
The sensible approach:
Start with simple DIY for:
- Single sink or basin slow drainage
- Recent blockages
- Obviously visible problems (hair in plughole, etc.)
- When you’re comfortable doing it
Call a professional for:
- Multiple drains affected
- Sewage backing up
- External drain blockages
- Repeated blockages
- DIY attempts failed
- You’re not confident or equipped
The cost calculation:
- DIY attempt: £0-£50 (plunger, drain snake, your time)
- Professional call-out: £80-£200
- Professional emergency call-out: £150-£400
If there’s a decent chance your DIY attempt will fail, and you’ll end up calling someone anyway, you might as well start with a professional. You’ll save time, stress, and the unpleasant experience of getting covered in drain gunk only to fail.
But for simple blockages – a slow-draining bathroom basin, a kitchen sink backing up after a roast dinner – it’s worth trying the plunger and snake first. You’ll probably fix it, and you’ll have saved yourself £100-£200 in the process.
The golden rule: If sewage is involved, if multiple drains are affected, or if you’re in any doubt whatsoever, call a professional. The difference in cost between a £150 call-out to clear a blockage and a £5,000 bill to excavate and replace collapsed drainage is enormous. Don’t penny-pinch yourself into a much bigger problem.
And remember: Trader Street connects you directly with local drainage specialists and plumbers who handle blockages, without the platform fees that inflate costs elsewhere. When you need help, you can compare reviews, check availability, and message directly to discuss your specific problem before committing – ensuring you get the right help at a fair price.
Your drains should be out of sight and out of mind. When they make themselves known, sort the problem quickly, whether that’s grabbing a plunger or ringing a professional. Just don’t stand there hoping it’ll magically fix itself. It won’t. And it’ll only get worse.
Now if you’ll excuse us, we need to go clean a particularly disgusting drain snake. The glamorous life of home maintenance, eh?
Dealing with a blocked drain and need professional help? Connect with experienced drainage specialists and plumbers on Trader Street. Read reviews, check availability, compare quotes, and arrange call-outs directly – getting your drains flowing freely again without the platform fees.
